zaterdag 7 januari 2017

Dutch Championships Sport and Ice Climbing

Completely forgot to write something about the two main Dutch competitions for me of the year: the Dutch Championships Sportclimbing and the Dutch Championships ice climbing. Hereby a small recap.

Fridaynight I arrived back in the Netherlands after three months living in Vienna. Just in time for the National sportclimbing championships! I was tensed, feeling fit after all training in Vienna and very eager to show everyone what I was capable of. Also I was stressed, because moving all my stuff and finishing my internship in Vienna took more energy than I expected. When I woke up Saturday I had musclepain due to carrying the luggage, but fortunately the stress was less. Later that day, in the isolation, most stress was gone and I mostly wanted to climb a nice route and enjoy it. But when I saw the route we had to climb, doubts came into my head: a bouldery route, starting with a jump was set; completely my antistyle. I tried to talk to myself: "you are prepared for this, this is exactly where you trained on in Vienna, you can do this!". It seemed to help and when it was my turn to climb, I smashed the jump, continued climbing, every move felt terrible as if I was doing the move wrong, but I kept on climbing til the middle of the route, where I really didn't saw the sequence. After some up- and downclimbing and wasting a lot of energy, I finally saw what to do and fighted for another couple of moves before I fell.

Photo by Sytse van Slooten

Disappointed about that I was not able to show my skills and strength and happy that I manage to continue climbing this high despite that it was completely not my style I went back to the ground. It turned out to be enough for the third place. It was impressive to see Nikki van Bergen dealing with the high expectations of the public and taking gold again, and it was even greater to see the progression of Tiba Vroom, cruising through the final route to the second place!

Photo by Zout Photography

The National ice climbing championships where hold one week later. This was for me the first time this season I was holding ice axes in my hands again, but I knew I am strong and I think that is one of the most important things for ice climbing. Very happy I was to top both qualification routes, making my expectations for the finals high. Unfortunately, a long move already in the beginning of the route I did not controlled enough, after which the final was over for me. A disappointing 4ht place was the result. Hopefully I can improve my skills in Tromso!

Photo by Sytse van Slooten

Geyikbayiri, Turkey 2016/17

I just came back from a well-deserved 2 weeks holiday in Turkey. After the internship in Vienna and a (too) busy week in the Netherlands with 2 Dutch Championships and meeting up with many friends and family, it was time to relax in Turkey.

The last few months Turkey was often in the news for attacks and the regime of president Erdogan. However, I remembered Turkey from my last trips as a beautiful country with some of the friendliest people I ever met. During this trip the friendliness of the people struck me even more. Turks are always happy to share everything they have with you, they smile at everything you say (even though they couldn't speak a single English word) and are always there to help you out if you are having any problems. Hopefully this country and its people will keep their smiles and hope during this period!

Together with Noël I flew to Antalya, from where we went to the village Geyikbayiri. The quality of the rocks and the great number of routes here is astonishing. The walls are futuring big tufa's, pockets, slabs, crimps, slopers, overhangs, everything a climber can wish for. Together with the weekly market on Sunday on which you can eat delicious gozleme and buy all fruits and vegetables you want, this place is a paradise.

The first two days the weather was fantastic; a clear blue sky and a warm sun made the beginning of the holiday a dream. But the next day we woke up in the middle of the night because our tent was collapsed, and a thick pack of snow blocked the opening of the tent. Good excuse for a rest day! The rest of the holiday it stayed cold and clouded, making the sportsclimbing a real wintersport!
The first week climbing went great, I felt strong and hard routes went down easily. Then, tiredness hit me and I decided to focus on climbing easier routes. In the end, I am very happy with my ticklist and feeling ready for the cold climbing in Norway!

Pictures are coming, for my ticklist please visit my 8a.nu account.